 Regarded
as one the most accessible among the
7,000m. Himalayan peaks, Baruntse -
the head of Barun (rain god) is a prominent
looking peak that spreads to Khumbu/Chukung
Valley on the North- West, Hongu Valley
on the South-West and Barun Valley on
the East. The first ascent of this beautiful
snow peak made by Colin Todd and Geoff
Harrow on 30 May 1954 via the SE Ridge
with their base camp placed at the snout
of the Upper Barun Glacier.
Approaching
the base camp and the Climb:
Our approach to this beautiful peak
is through the Hinku / Hongu valley.
Two mountain passes: Tsetrawa la at
4,600m/15,088ft and Mera la at 5,500m/
18040ft are crossed before base camp
is reached at 5450m/17900ft. The Barun-tse
base camp is situated in a grassy
spot meadow with a small lake next
to the Hunku glacier . The approach
to the base camp from Lukla, where
we fly, is approximately 7 days walk
through a remote country. This area
is accessible only to climbers and
few hardy trekkers.
 Our
climbing route is on the South East
ridge of the mountain. A deposit camp
is placed at 5,800m/19,024ft. before
advance base camp is set-up near the
West Col 6,135m/20,122ft from where
we climb the South East Ridge of the
mountain to its summit. The route
above here is entirely on snow and
ice and is not particularly technical
apart from a prominent ice cliff around
7000m. Two higher camps at 6,420m/
21,057ft at the foot of South East
ridge and another camp at 6,650m/21,812ft.
are placed before the summit is attempted.
Cornices pose problem near the summit
and some cornices break at the touch
of an ice axe! Anchors, harness, rope
and knots and most importantly the
snow condition is thoroughly while
fixing route on this section.
The summit view offers the very impressive
south face of Lhotse, Makalu, Chamlang
and Kangchenjuna in the distant east.
After the summit attempt, climbers
may opt to return to Kathmandu the
same way back to Lukla or take the
Sherpani Col - Makulu base camp trail
to Tumlingtar and fly to Kathmandu.
Included in the expedition
service cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer;
Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard
for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and
breakfast basis, Customs clearance;
Sherpa support ( 1 Sherpa for four
climbers), cook, kitchen boy, porters
and pack animals, food for trek, BC
and climb; Group equipment for the
climb, Camping Service including tents
for BC and climb, kitchen/dinning
tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Flights
Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu, H.F.
radio sets;. Oxygen for medical purpose,,
all permit fees, wages / allowances,
personal insurance coverage for the
liaison officer, climbing Sherpas,
kitchen staff and porters.
Not included in the expedition
service cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu, personal
equipment, personal insurance including
emergency evacuation, visa fee and
airport tax and other services than
those mentioned in the service inclusion
 Itinerary
Day 1 : Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 : Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
Day 3-11 : Approach march to the base
camp
Day 12-27 : Climbing
Day 28-32 Return march to Lukla
Day 33 : Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 35 : Trip ends
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