Finely
architectured in its formation with
four ridges running to all direction
from its summit, at 8,475m/ 27,798ft
high, Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain
in the world. It lies on the border
of Nepal and Tibet about 20km east of
Mt. Everest. It was first climbed in
1955 by a strong French team via the
NW Ridge. The summiteers included legendry
Lionel Terray from the historic 1950
Annapurna and famous Gyaltsen Norbu
Sherpa who later climbed made the first
ascent of Manaslu with the Japanese
in 1956. As of spring 2005, 227 climbers
belonging to 176 expedition teams have
reached the summit of Makalu. Our climbing
route on climb Makalu is also via the
North West Ridge route which though
not easy is technically more accessible
than the other established routes in
Makalu.
To begin our expedition, we fly to
Tumlingtar 330m/1083ft- a sub tropical
town situated near the Arun river
which drains all way from the other
side of Mt. Everest in Tibet! From
Tumlingtar we take short jeep ride
to Khandbari which is the trail head
for treks into Makalu area and trek
at leisurely pace to to arrive at
our base camp which will be set at
5300/17384ft. Before We acclimatize
for a couple days at the Makalu South
BC 4700m/15416ft.
Above
base camp we-set up an advance base
camp at 5700m/ 18700ft followed by
Camp I at 6300m/20664ft, Camp II at
6750m/22140ft, Camp III at 7400m,24272ft
on Makalu La. From Makalu La, we gain
access on the NW Ridge of Makalu and
place the final camp at 7700m/25250ft.
Onward the final camp, the climbing
gets more technical and difficult
- specially final couloir to the summit
ridge if the conditions are icy.
Depending to the weather conditions,
we take about a month to complete
the climb above base-camp. A huge
amount of time is spent in getting
in the process of get well acclimatized
for the summit
push.
Included in the expedition
service cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport
transfer; Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star
standard for 3 nights in twin sharing
bed and breakfast basis, Customs clearance;
Sherpa support (1 climbing Sherpa
per climber) four climbers), cook,
kitchen boy, porters and pack animals,
food for trek, BC and climb; Group
equipment for the climb, Camping Service
including tents for BC and climb,
kitchen/dinning tent, toilet tent,
chair/tables; Flights Kathmandu -
Tumlingtar - Kathmandu, Oxygen (3
cylinder for climber and 1 cylinder
for climbing Sherpa), Satellite phone
and walky talkies, all permit fees,
wages / allowances, personal insurance
coverage for the liaison officer,
climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and
porters.
Not included in the expedition
service cost:
Main meals in Kathmandu,
personal equipment, personal insurance
including emergency evacuation, visa
fee and airport tax and other services
than those mentioned in the service
inclusion.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 Kathmandu
Day 3 Fly Tumlingtar - jeep ride to
Khandbari
Day 4-14 Approach march to the base
camp
Day 14-44 Climbing
Day 45 Clean BC
Day 46-54 Return march to Tumlingtar
Day 55 Fly Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
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