|Mt. Baruntse (7,193m/23,593ft.)
Area: Hongu/Barun Valley
Days: 35 days trip-32 days trek/climb, 3 days kathmandu
Dept. Ex. KTM : 10 April, 05 Sept.
Per Person Cost:
Regarded as one the most accessible among the 7,000m. Himalayan peaks, Baruntse - the head of Barun (rain god) is a prominent looking peak that spreads to Khumbu/Chukung Valley on the North- West, Hongu Valley on the South-West and Barun Valley on the East. The first ascent of this beautiful snow peak made by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow on 30 May 1954 via the SE Ridge with their base camp placed at the snout of the Upper Barun Glacier.
Approaching the base camp and the Climb:
Our approach to this beautiful peak is through the Hinku / Hongu valley. Two mountain passes: Tsetrawa la at 4,600m/15,088ft and Mera la at 5,500m/ 18040ft are crossed before base camp is reached at 5450m/17900ft. The Barun-tse base camp is situated in a grassy spot meadow with a small lake next to the Hunku glacier . The approach to the base camp from Lukla, where we fly, is approximately 7 days walk through a remote country. This area is accessible only to climbers and few hardy trekkers.
Our climbing route is on the South East ridge of the mountain. A deposit camp is placed at 5,800m/19,024ft. before advance base camp is set-up near the West Col 6,135m/20,122ft from where we climb the South East Ridge of the mountain to its summit. The route above here is entirely on snow and ice and is not particularly technical apart from a prominent ice cliff around 7000m. Two higher camps at 6,420m/ 21,057ft at the foot of South East ridge and another camp at 6,650m/21,812ft. are placed before the summit is attempted. Cornices pose problem near the summit and some cornices break at the touch of an ice axe! Anchors, harness, rope and knots and most importantly the snow condition is thoroughly while fixing route on this section.
The summit view offers the very impressive south face of Lhotse, Makalu, Chamlang and Kangchenjuna in the distant east. After the summit attempt, climbers may opt to return to Kathmandu the same way back to Lukla or take the Sherpani Col - Makulu base camp trail to Tumlingtar and fly to Kathmandu.
Included in the expedition service cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer; Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and breakfast basis, Customs clearance; Sherpa support ( 1 Sherpa for four climbers), cook, kitchen boy, porters and pack animals, food for trek, BC and climb; Group equipment for the climb, Camping Service including tents for BC and climb, kitchen/dinning tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Flights Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu, H.F. radio sets;. Oxygen for medical purpose,, all permit fees, wages / allowances, personal insurance coverage for the liaison officer, climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and porters.
Not included in the expedition service cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu, personal equipment, personal insurance including emergency evacuation, visa fee and airport tax and other services than those mentioned in the service inclusion.
Day 1 : Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 : Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
Day 3-11 : Approach march to the base camp
Day 12-27: Climbing
Day 28-32: Return march to Lukla
Day 33: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 35: Trip ends