"Seen from the north, standing completely alone, a solitary, somewhat alien extrusion rearing out of the earth-brown Tibetan plateau, Shisapangma for me is one of the most lovely eight-thousanders. An expressionistic apparition!" Reinhold Messner - first 14 eight-thousander sumitteer.
Days: 65 day trip -62 day trek / climb, 3 day Kathmandu
Dept. Ex. KTM : 15 Sept., 15 Mar.
Per Person Cost:
Seen from the north, standing completely alone, a solitary, somewhat alien extrusion rearing out of the earth-brown Tibetan plateau, Shisapangma, which is corruption of its original name Chisa-Pangma 'pasture meadow" in Tibetan, was for long known by its Nepali name Gosaithan. This name is assumed to originate from the mountain's proximity to Gosaikunda, a holy lake which lies less than 30 kilometer north of Kathmandu in the Jugal Himal range. This peak is among the least highest of all eight thousand meter peaks and the only 8000 meter peak which lies entirely in Tibet. Our climb climbing route is the NW Face & North Ridge route from the North side of the mountain following the first successful ascent of this mountain by 10 Tibetan and Chinese mountaineers on 2 May 1964.
In Kathmandu we meet with other climbers and shortly drive on the Kathmandu - Lhasa highway to reach the base camp of Shisapangma situated at an altitude around 5000m/16,400ft. We take four days to arrive at our base camp with a night in the border town Zhangmu ( on the Tibet side) and two nights at Nyalam 3,750m/ 12,300ft. for acclimatization purpose. From base camps yaks are used to reach the advance base camp (ABC) in two days situated at an altitude of 5,600m/ 18,368ft
Onward ABC, we place camp I at around 6500m/21,320ft. on a col before setting up camp II at 7,000m/22,960ft - just before we encounter the North West Face of the mountain. Higher up, we set up camp III at around 7,400m/ 24,272ft. and follow the North Ridge which gradually leads us to the summit. Technically not very demanding, this climb provides a good start for your 8000m quest and brilliant mountains views of mountains in the Jugal and Langtang Himal range in the Nepal / Tibet frontier.
Included in the Expedition Cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer; Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and breakfast basis, Customs clearance; Sherpa support (1 climbing Sherpa per climber), cook, kitchen boy, porters and pack animals, food for trek, BC and climb; Group equipment for the climb, Camping Service including tents for BC and climb, kitchen/dinning tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Oxygen (3 cylinder for climber and 1 cylinder for climbing Sherpa), Satellite phone and walky talkies, all permit fees, wages / allowances, personal insurance coverage for the liaison officer, climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and porters.
Not Included in the Expedition Cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu, personal equipment, personal insurance including emergency evacuation, visa fee and airport tax and other services than those mentioned in the service inclusion.
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu
Day 4: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam
Day 5: Acclimatization day in Nyalam
Day 6: Drive to Xegar
Day 7: Acclimatization around Xegar
Day 8: Drive to Chinese base camp
Day 9~10: Acclimatize around the Chinese BC
Day 11: Trek to ABC
Day 10-36: Climbing
Day 37: Clean up at the ABC
Day 38: Drive to Zhangmu
Day 39: Arrive Kathmandu,
Day 40: trip ends