In For those who have experienced the joy of climbing a few of the ” Trekking Peaks”, Windhorse Trekking has designed four climbs between 6800 meter to 7300 meter in height to introduce some of Nepal’s most beautiful peaks. These peaks situated in 4 different mountain valleys offer varied climbing condition, diverse culture and geography and introduction to ‘expedition-style’ climbing. Among these four peaks, Amadablam 6852m. which stands guard to the world’s highest peak Mt. Everest a few kilometer to the south is probably the most popular among all the peaks in the Himalaya.
Its popularity may be attributed to its fine features, technically challenging routes and an unsurpassed views of all the 8000 meter summits in the eastern Himalaya which is available throughout the climb. The mountain which is just 5 days easy walk from the airstrip in Lukla offers a relative quick access to climbers. In fact a 500 yard long strip was built just a couple kilometer away from Amadablam base camp at Mingbo by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1960 during his High Altitude physiological Research Expedition. A pilatus porter aircraft piloted by a German pilot made several landings here before the airstrip was declared unfit by the civil aviation authority. Interestingly Hillary was asked to pay a Rs. 3000.00 fine by the government of Nepal for four of his expedition members Michael Ward, Barry Bishop, Wally Romanes and Michael Gill, reaching the summit of Amadablam without a permit.
Baruntse 7193m. situated at the top of Hillary’s favorite Barun valley was first climbed by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of New Zealand who were member’s of Hillary unsuccessful Makalu expedition in 1954. Approach to Baruntse can also be made by crossing the Amphulaptsa pass north east of Amadablam as well as from Hongu Valley from the south. A couple other members of the Hillary’s 1954 Makalu expedition also made the first ascent of Kangtega following a route on the south side of the mountain. The quickest approach to Kangtega is from Lukla across Tsetrawa la 4600m into Hinku Valley.
Mike Gill, Jim Wilson, Tom Frost and Dave Dormans, also members of Hillary’s another expedition that built schools in Pangboche and Thami villages of Khumbu, were the first climbers to make the first ascent of Kangtega in June 1963. The climb was organized to mark the 10th Anniversary of the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest.
Way out of Amadablam, Baruntse and Kangtega; Gurja Himal is situated on the other side of Nepal, in the Dhaulagiri Himals in the mid west Nepal. The area around Gurja Himal is among the least visited by trekkers and climbers so the old ways of doing things by the local can be best observed here.
The are abundant choices for climbing peaks in the range above in Nepal. The main reason I have only presented four here is because these peaks are relatively free of avalanche dangers which is one of the main reason for mountain accidents.