Seen
from the north, standing completely
alone, a solitary, somewhat alien
extrusion rearing out of the earth-brown
Tibetan plateau, Shisapangma, which
is corruption of its original name
Chisa-Pangma 'pasture meadow"
in Tibetan, was for long known by
its Nepali name Gosaithan. This name
is assumed to originate from the mountain's
proximity to Gosaikunda, a holy lake
which lies less than 30 kilometer
north of Kathmandu in the Jugal Himal
range. This peak is among the least
highest of all eight thousand meter
peaks and the only 8000 meter peak
which lies entirely in Tibet. Our
climb climbing route is the NW Face
& North Ridge route from the North
side of the mountain following the
first successful ascent of this mountain
by 10 Tibetan and Chinese mountaineers
on 2 May 1964.
The
Climb:
In Kathmandu we meet with
other climbers and shortly drive on
the Kathmandu - Lhasa highway to reach
the base camp of Shisapangma situated
at an altitude around 5000m/16,400ft.
We take four days to arrive at our
base camp with a night in the border
town Zhangmu ( on the Tibet side)
and two nights at Nyalam 3,750m/ 12,300ft.
for acclimatization purpose. From
base camps yaks are used to reach
the advance base camp (ABC) in two
days situated at an altitude of 5,600m/
18,368ft
Onward ABC, we place camp I at around
6500m/21,320ft. on a col before setting
up camp II at 7,000m/22,960ft - just
before we encounter the North West
Face of the mountain. Higher up, we
set up camp III at around 7,400m/
24,272ft. and follow the North Ridge
which gradually leads us to the summit.
Technically not very demanding, this
climb provides a good start for your
8000m quest and brilliant mountains
views of mountains in the Jugal and
Langtang Himal range in the Nepal
/ Tibet frontier..
Included in the Expedition
Cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer;
Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard
for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and
breakfast basis, Customs clearance;
Sherpa support (1 climbing Sherpa
per climber), cook, kitchen boy, porters
and pack animals, food for trek, BC
and climb; Group equipment for the
climb, Camping Service including tents
for BC and climb, kitchen/dinning
tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Oxygen
(3 cylinder for climber and 1 cylinder
for climbing Sherpa), Satellite phone
and walky talkies, all permit fees,
wages / allowances, personal insurance
coverage for the liaison officer,
climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and
porters.
Not Included in the Expedition
Cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu,
personal equipment, personal insurance
including emergency evacuation, visa
fee and airport tax and other services
than those mentioned in the service
inclusion.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 Free day in Kathmandu
Day 3 Drive to Zhangmu
Day 4 Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam
Day 5 Acclimatization day in Nyalam
Day 6 Drive to Xegar
Day 7 Acclimatization around Xegar
Day 8 Drive to Chinese base camp
Day 9~10 Acclimatize around the Chinese
BC
Day 11 Trek to ABC
Day 10-36 Climbing
Day 37 Clean up at the ABC
Day 38 Drive to Zhangmu
Day 39 Arrive Kathmandu,
Day 40 trip ends
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