POTALA PALACE :The Red
Hill rising from the valley floor of
Lhasa houses one of the architectural
wonders of the world, The Potala Palace.
Before the existence of this palace,
the Red hill had a fortress said to
have been erected by the King Songtsen
Gampo at around 7th century AD for his
two foreign wives. It is believed that
the King himself used to study Buddhism
here after his conversion from the Bon
faith. Of this old fortress two small
rooms still exist at the Potala of the
present day. The new Potala consists
of a White and a Red palace and a small
yellow portion in between. The White
Palace was built by the fifth Dalai
Lama who moved from Drepung Monastery
in about 1650. The White Palace housed
Offices in the former days and also
had the living quarters, the seminary
and the printing house where Buddhist
scriptures were hand printed from woodblocks.
The Red Palace however contained the
gold stupas and tombs of the Eight Dalai
Lamas also the monks assembly hall,
numerous chapels and shrines and the
libraries for Buddhist scriptures. There
are apartments on the east side of the
roof belonging to the 13th and 14th
Dalai lama and also the suite of the
present Dalai lama. The small yellow
portion in between houses the giant
banners embroidered with holy symbols
hung across the south face of Potala
during New Year festivals.
The Saint's Chapel has Potalas holiest
shrine. Dating back from the 7th century
it has a small ancient jewel encrusted
statue of Chenrezi with his two attendants.
On the floor below, a low dark passage
leads to the ' Dharma Cave ' where the
king Songsten Gampo is believed to have
studied Buddhism. The roof can be reached
by ladder stairs. From here a panoramic
view of the Lhasa Valley can be seen.
There also the Great West Hall and the
North Chapel. Beneath these palaces
are the dark cells for monks, servants
and two treasuries. One for the Dalai
Lama and the Regents and the next one
for the state. Lower than this are the
granaries and storerooms. At the base
is the dungeon carved out of living
rock.
The Potala remained the center for
political and religious power for
the Dalai Lamas. At the present state
only a small part of this palace is
open to public.
NORBULINGKA PALACE :Norbulingka is
the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas.
It was first built in 1755 by the
seventh Dalai lama and later his successive
rulers added their own buildings to
it. Norbulingka means ' Jewel Park
'. Though now it is called People's
Park with palaces, pavilions, zoo,
gardens and woods covering 40 hectares
(100 acres) of land. It lies 3km (2miles)
west of Potala. The park has an elaborate
gate of entry built by the thirteenth
Dalai lama with huge red doors and
White lions as the guardians. The
New summer palace built by the present
Dalai lama is enclosed within a walled
garden. The rooms of these palace
are primarily the main throne hall
which has murals depicting Tibet's
mythical early history from its founding
by the holy monkey to the event of
King Songtsen Gampo's building of
Jokhang Temple. Besides this other
rooms are the Dalai Lamas private
apartment, an audience hall and his
mothers apartment.
The Old summer palace built in the
18th century is somewhat in ruin but
the restoration work is still in progress.
There are vast gardens and woods and
a Zoo at the west side with collection
of Tibetan animals like the snow lynx,
white bibbed Himalayan bears, fanged
deer and the red ring tailed lesser
pandas.
At the far side is the group of temples
called Kasang. The main temple has
a superb collection of thangkas. There
are also 48 jewelled brocaded Boddhisattvas
and Taras in glass cases along with
the Dalai lamas throne.
JOKHANG TEMPLE :It is the most holy
place for the Tibetan pilgrims and
the spiritual center of Tibet. It
is one of the two temples built by
the King Songtsen Gampo to house the
statues of Buddha brought by his two
foreign wives, one from China and
one from Nepal. Legend has it that
the King threw his ring into the air
promising to build a temple wherever
it lands. The ring fell into a lake
and hit a rock beneath where a white
stupa appeared miraculously. Workmen
then proceeded with their work to
build the temple and filled the lake
with stones. Craftsmen from Tibet,
Nepal, China and Kashmir were brought
to build it and Jokhang was finally
built. Even today a pond exists under
its main courtyard.
The temple consists of an elaborate
porch leading to an open courtyard.
usually these courtyard and porch
are filled with pilgrims making full
length prostrations towards the holy
sanctum, A passage leads to a main
hall where there is the sacred shrine
holding the ancient Buddha statue
at the rear end of this hall. There
are numerous small chapels enshrining
variety of Tibetan deities. The passage
leading to it has guardian statues
- fierce on the left and benign on
the right. Also there are murals depicting
Wen Cheng, the Chinese wife of king
Songtsen Gampo, coming to Tibet with
the statue and also the pictures of
the building of Jokhang. In the middle
of the hall are two huge images of
Padmasambhava and Sakyamuni and between
them the eleven headed, Chenrezi -
the Boddhisattva of compassion. The
roof enjoys as different atmosphere.
Here, there are numerous pavilions,
craftsmen's workshops, monks living
rooms and the gold roofs embellished
with bells, birds, dragons etc.
The deep roots of spirituality of
this place can be felt in its innumerable
flickering Butter lamps, the distant
murmuring of the mantras and the pilgrims
moving in clockwise direction towards
the sacred statue.
SERA MONASTERY :Sera means ' The
merciful hail ' as opposed to Drepung
which means ' Rice heap '. As the
hail destroys rice here the rivalry
between these two monasteries can
be clearly seen. Sera lies on the
northern edge of Lhasa at the base
of Tatipu hill. Founded in 1419 by
one of Tsong Khapa's eight disciple,
it became renowned for its tantric
teachings. The monks of Sera especially
the warrior monks or the dob-dobs
were greatly admired as well as feared.
A long driveway leads up to the monastery.
A central lane runs through the monastery
complex. West side of this lane contains
the Chanting hall of the Gyetzang
college whose holy west chapel contains
the awesome horse headed demon God
named Ayaguriba whose origin is supposed
to be from Bon religion. There is
a debating garden behind this building
where novices practice for their examinations
as well as have their examinations
here. On the east mountainside are
the rock paintings most notable being
the blue Yamantaka with Prajina, wrathful
form of Boddhisattva of wisdom. Other
such paintings are of Tsong Khapa,
founder of the Yellow Hat sect and
that of Sera's first abbot Sakya Yeshe.
The Tsug-gyeng college can be entered
form here with Sera's greatest treasure
in its east chapel, a gilded Chenrezi
with hundreds of hands and eyes and
a huge Maitreya which can be seen
from both its chanting hall and its
roof. Then there are also the Ngawa
and Drezame college's chanting halls.
The latter being the remarkable of
the two for its vestibule murals.
About 1km east of Sera is an isolated
rock for ' Sky burials '. Here Tibetans
break the bodies of their dead into
small pieces and feed them to the
birds at dawn. These body breakers
are known as domdens. This type of
process seemed to have originated
due to the frozen ground which prevents
normal burials and scarce fuel which
prevents from cremating the body.
DREPUNG MONASTERY :Drepung means '
Rice Heap ' because of the jumble
of the white building piled up against
Mount Gyengbuwudze . It lies 8km (5
miles) west of Lhasa. It was the biggest
and the richest monastery in Tibet
with Lamas who trained each young
Dalai lama. Drepung housed Nechung
or the state oracle who uttered prophecies
on whose basis the rulers based their
vital decisions.
Built in 1416 by a disciple of Tsong
Khapa, the fifth Dalai lama was the
one who enlarged and ruled the monastery.
The monastery was divided into four
different colleges each with their
own chanting halls, dormitories and
kitchens and offices. The Chanting
halls are all faced southwards with
a courtyard in front and are decorated
with murals. These halls should be
walked in clockwise direction. On
the right of Drepung is Nechung temple
which used to be the oracle's home.
Nuosenle college's chanting hall is
adorned with splendid murals and chapels
with tombs of the second, third and
fourth Dalai lama. To the west is
Tsug-gyeng college. Its roof houses
Drepung's treasures. On the west side
of the roof is a chapel with a covered
porch at front containing its Holy
of the holies, a giant gilded Buddha
whose head and chest alone are visible.
It also holds a sacred conch shell
with a counter clockwise whorls. On
east is a chapel containing oracle
dolls which are said to have spoken
to special lamas in the past and Tsong
Khapa's tooth in a gold reliquary.
Pilgrims come here to prostrate.
The small chanting hall of Ngapa
college has exquisite gold drawings
on its red doors depicting the history
of the Dalai Lama and the Panchen
lamas. There is a three tiered building
known as Ganden Podrang from where
the fifth Dalai Lama reigned while
the Potala palace was under construction.
A path from the west side of the monastery
leads to the Holy Mt. Gyengbuwudze
which involves a hard half day hike
to the top. |