Overview

Kusum Kanguru 6367m regarded as technically challenging on all possible routes. Kusum Kanguru 6367m is a mountain in the Khumbu Region of the Himalaya in Nepal. Its name, Kusum Kanguru, means “Three Snow-White Gods” in the Sherpa language, which refers to the triple summit of the mountain.

The first successful ascent was made by Bill Denz of New Zealand on 7 October 1981, climbing the southwest buttress (west face), and descending the northwest flank. Denz did not only realize the first ascent, but also the first solo ascent and the first traverse of Kusum Kanguru.  And later Five days, on 12 October 1981, a team of Japanese made the second ascent via the southeast face

Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name originating in Sherpa language means the three snow-white gods. This climb offers an amazing climb for experienced climbers who want to challenge themselves in the Himalaya at a reasonable cost.

This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience. The approach to the base camp will be from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two / three high camps are required to complete the climb. 45 ~ 70 degree ice sections are required to overcome to get to the summit!